Taylor’s Weekend Gardening Guide to the Winter Garden: Plants that offer color and beauty in every season of the year – The author suggests that you plan your garden with winter in mind. She explains which plants need special care and how to care for them. She shows how to improve plant survival, where and how to plant more sensitive species to avoid damage from snow or frost, how to protect plants from frozen soil, etc.

Buchanan organizes her book by plants that stay green over winter (evergreens), have showy bark or twigs, bear fruits or berries, and by grasses and first flowers. Within each group, she suggests several plants and describes them (look, height, light requirements, growing zone, and attraction points). About a quarter of the plants are shown in photographs. The book is a great reference for anyone interested in creating a year-round attractive garden.

For those who live in cold climates, or those who want to be assured of some year-round interest from their plantings, this is a good source of ideas. The Winter Garden lists (with many color photographs) plants of all types and sizes which remain interesting in winter for their color, shape, berries, or texture. It’s a good book to read for gardeners who are suffering from let down when the blooming season passes. I found this bit of advice useful: plan any landscape as if it were a winter landscape. Then you will be assured of some beauty all year, and even more so when the flowers do finally pop up. Also, plant an evergreen shrub and maybe some ornamental grass (or Christmas ferns) in the center of a garden bed; colorful annuals and perennials can surround this when weather permits.

Thought we would join in the Thursday Thirteen fun this week. Instead of 13 things about Me – I have created The Garden 13 with 13 interesting gardening tips and tricks I’ve come across over the past week.

To start off our second Garden 13 – we’re talkin’ organic gardens! Organic gardens can be attractive and productive. Well-managed soil nurtures healthy plants and pesticide-free gardens have predators to deal with pests. The ten steps below will help you make your garden organic. Since now is the time to be thinking about preparing your garden bed for next year – - here we go . .

Here are 13 fabulous tomato varieties (the first 6 are in my garden):

1. Improving the soil – Whether you have heavy clay or light sand, you can’t do much about your soil texture. However, you can do something about the structure and quality, and any improvements you make to the soil will have a direct effect on the health of your plants.

   Soil conditioners, such as leaf mould, composted bark, homemade or municipal compost, benefit all soils. They can be dug in or simply spread on the surface where the weather and soil-dwellers, such as earthworms, will work them in. Their bulk will improve the drainage of heavy soils and help dry soils to hold on to moisture and nutrients.

2. Garden nutrients – Gardeners worldwide know the value of home-produced garden compost. It nourishes the soil, supplies it with nutrients and improves its structure, giving plants ideal growing conditions. It also helps combat soil-borne pests and diseases.

   The time to apply compost is when plants are actively growing, not during late autumn and winter when long wet spells will wash its valuable nutrients deep down into the earth, out of reach of next season’s crops.

   Organic gardeners recycle everything through the compost heap, only discarding badly diseased material. Mature compost looks and smells like good garden soil, but is a phenomenal mixture that is high in nutrients and teeming with the micro-organisms your soil needs to keep it in good condition. If you don’t have one already, start your heap off this year – you won’t regret it.

3. Making compost – Compost-making is a year-round activity. The secret to success is to have a good mixture of material. If the heap is too wet, you’ll end up with stinking sludge; if it is too dry, composting will be very slow. If you’ve got a lot of wet stuff, such as kitchen waste or green weeds, mix it with dry material, such as egg boxes and crumpled cardboard. Old envelopes are particularly good for mixing with grass clippings.

   You can use a container or make a heap directly on the ground. Add to it whenever you like, remembering to avoid very thick layers of anything very wet or very dry. If you have a large quantity of any one material, such as grass clippings or woody prunings, make a separate pile. Wait until you’ve got the balancing stuff to go with it, then add it to the main heap.

   If you’re energetic you can turn the heap around, mixing it all up occasionally – but you’ll get equally good compost by letting nature do the work for you.

4. Weed control – Organic gardens are not unkempt, but neither are they free of all weeds, since many are very useful. For example, nettles support aphids for early-feeding ladybirds. Thistles provide food, in the forms of nectar and seeds, for many different creatures, and butterflies breed in flowering grasses
5. More Weed Control – Once again, the key is to aim for a balance. If weeds are likely to compete with your plants for nutrients, they should be controlled. So-called organic herbicides don’t exist, so other methods must be used: 1. – Keep bare soil covered as weeds will seed in any open space. In ornamental areas, use ground cover plants or a mulch to smother weeds. Mulch around vegetables with leaf-mould or hay. 2. – During winter grow a green manure, such as clover, where you have no crop cover. As well as keeping down weeds, it stores nutrients in its roots. These are returned to the soil when it is uprooted and dug in during spring. 3. – Hoe off weeds as soon as they appear. All the green waste can be added to the compost heap where any minerals and other nutrients they have absorbed during their short growing time will be recycled for the benefit of your garden plants.
6. Seed and plant choice – Always buy plants that suit your site and soil, and choose disease-resistant varieties whenever you can. Seed catalogues offer a huge range of plants, both ornamental and edible, that have natural resistance to all sorts of problems. There are even a couple of potato varieties – ‘Cara’ and ‘Remarka’ – that are resistant to blight.
7. Changing perspectives – Organic gardeners want their plants to grow well, but not at any cost. Rather than rely on an arsenal of pesticide sprays to deal with problems, they use other means to achieve success. They also accept and tolerate a certain level of imperfection.
8. Chemical issues – There are many organic pesticides and fungicides available but these products last only a short time in the environment. If absolutely necessary only use them as a last resort.

   Chemicals, even organically acceptable ones, can cause more damage than we realise. Contact killers can often hit non-pest species, while treatments designed to combat fungal problems can be washed into the soil, damaging worms and other soil-dwellers. The best technique is to deal with problems early on, thus avoiding the need for chemical treatments.

9. Pest management – Don’t rely on just one method of pest control, as the best results come from using a range of techniques. Traps and barriers, naturally resistant varieties, biological controls and crop rotation are just some of the ways to keep pests at bay. Vigilance is crucial. By checking your plants often, you’ll spot problems in the early stages when they are easier to deal with. Often you can allow nature’s armoury of natural predators to work for you. Also, it pays to take good care of your soil, because healthy soil will produce strong plants that tolerate some pest attack.
10. Dead Bugs – My mother-in-law spreds dead bugs across her garden. Seriously. She collects the bugs in a jar. When she gets enough – she grinds them and then sprinkles the dead bug mixture on her garden. The theory? Live insects can smell the dead carcuses of their buggy friends and steer clear of the burial site. For her, it really works!
11. Disease management – There are several ways to combat diseases naturally. Always change the position of your vegetable crops each year. By doing this, you’ll avoid a build-up of soil-borne problems. Keep plants growing steadily by never letting them go short of water. Dry roots lead to stressed plants that are ready to succumb to any disease. Keeping the soil well-composted will help suppress many diseases as well.
12. Encourage wildlife – Organic gardens are vital havens for wildlife. Grow a range of plants providing food and shelter and see how quickly the creatures arrive. Aim to attract as wide a range of wildlife as possible, because greater diversity will produce better balance, allowing natural predators to keep pests under control.
13. Organic Gardening – Organic gardens can be attractive and productive. Well-managed soil nurtures healthy plants and pesticide-free gardens have predators to deal with pests. The ten steps below will help you make your garden organic.

Happy Gardening!

This year, I planted 8 cucumber plants in our new vegetable garden.

A week later – they turned pure white, then they turned brown, dried out and withered away. I had to dig them up and replace them with new cucumber plants – which after a week are doing extremely well at the moment. They’re deep green and nice and perky in their new home.

But why did my old cucumber plants turn white?

I’ve found two possible scenarios:

1.) The soil is too nitrogen rich. When we prepared the garden – we mixed in rotted manure into the soil and planted the cucumbers in it – - along with vegetable slow-release fertilizer. This proved to be too much fertilizer with the manure and slow-release fertilizer combined. solution: when the plants died.. I dug them up.. made a large hole around the area and filled that hole with regular topsoil (non fertilized) then mixed that soil with the surrounding fertilized soil. This mixed in good nutrients, but decreased the nitrogen content of the surrounding soil. I then replanted the cucumbers.

2.) the very night I planted the cucumbers… it got down to 38 degrees overnight. While that is not freezing temperatures – there is a such thing as a ‘chilling injury’ that can occur in cucumber plants… in zones that are cooler. It happens in zones where the temperatures warm prematurely (in Wisconsin that would be early -mid April) – - then gardeners (like ME!) get anxious to plant and they go out and get their crops in the ground – - then the temperatures dip to an ‘almost’ freezing temperature.. but not quite freezing. The chilling effect occurs: “Exposure to chilling
temperatures results in increased ethylene production and leakage of cell membranes. The degree of chilling injury depends on the temperature, the duration of chilling, and other factors such as relative humidity and soil moisture. Because chilling results in cell leakage, damage to plants can stress tissues. These include loss of turgor (wilting or drooping leaves) and leaf scorch, appearing as a whitish ring around the leaf margins. Other symptoms include reduced growth rate after warming and plant yellowing.” [source]

So – my mystery white cucumbers may be solved with one, or both, of the solutions above. Either way – I replanted and they are currently doing extremely well – - let’s hope that continues throughout the season!

Whether you’re planting only one shrub or fifty annuals, it’s important to prepare the soil. This is true even if you’re planting in an existing flower bed. Prepare new flower beds well. In existing flower beds, work a few spadefuls of soil ammendment, such as compost, into the area you’ll be planting. Especially if planting annuals, work a slow-release fertilizer into the ground. Annuals are hungry, fast-growing plants that thrive when given plenty of nutrients.

Before planting, make sure your plants are well-watered and not wilting. If they are looking droopy, water them in their existing pots and wait a day for them to recover. If a plant is a bare-root, soak the roots in cool water for several hours before planting.

To plant, remove the plant gently from its pot. If the roots are wrapped in circles or are thickly knotted, loosen them with your fingers. If the roots are very large and tough, you may even need to slice through them slightly with a space to loosen them.

Position the plant so the soil level is the same as it was in the pot. If the plant is bare-root, plant it at the depth specified in the package.

Difficult as it may sedem, pinch or trim off any flowers. They’re taking energy that would be better put into establishing the plant’s root system for bigger, better and more flowers later on. You’ll lose a few pretty blooms initially, but you’ll be rewarded with a healthier, longer-blooming plant.

Water the plant well. If it’s a shrub or a rose, position a hose at the base just barely at a trickle and let it run for half an hour or more. For annuals and perinneals, water so the soil is soaked a foot down.

Keep the plants well watered for the first two weeks, checking them daily for soil moisture and signs of wilting. Once they’re established, they’ll need less water.

Hot Tips!

Get those roots going! When planting, it’s a good idea to add something that will get the roots off to a FAST start. Well-developed root systems make for healthier plants that are better at taking up water and critical nutrients. A so-called starter fertilizer is heavy on phosophorus, which encourages growth. Another way to get roots going is to use a root stimulator. Root stimulators contain hormones that encourage rapid root growth.

Happy planting!

If I learned anything at all from my folks about gardening, is that it’s alllllll about composting. Compost! Compost! Compost!

The long list of benefits that come from composting goes on and on:

• It feeds your plants
• It improves drainage in your garden
• It helps retain moisture
• It makes weeding easier
• It helps distribute fertilizer better
• It attracts beneficial earthworms
• It promotes microbial activity (soil microbes break down organic matter so it can be used by your plants)
• It helps prevent disease

Composting is not only important, it’s easy! Pile up materials and let them break down – could it be any more easy??? In fact, composting makes the daily garden grind easier because it’s a convienent way to dispose of leaves, grass clippings, and other yard wastes. Forget bagging!

Fancy compost bins are available at your local gardening or home improvement store and are easy enough to install. They aren’t necessary, though – you can make your own with cheap wire fencing. Just build a framework with the wire. Once you have the bin, add the materials as you gather them during the ordinary course of your yard work. You’ll have compost in several months – - usually found at the bottom of the pile.

Cold Compost
Cold compost is the easiest method of composting – but it is also the longest way, taking the most time – it’s done by piling up materials and letting them break down for a year or two with an occassional turn if possible. Add cold compost to the bottom of a planting hole, but avoid mulching with it. When used on the soil’s surface, incompletely composted weeds or plants you’ve added, such as tomatoes or dandelions, may sprout and create problems.

Hot compost
Hot compost comes from a compost pile constructed with a balance of nitrogen-rich and carbon-rich materials that are turned regularly, at least once every week or two. It is also kept evenly moist with occasional watering. Hot compost becomes hot to the touch, and the heat kills weed seeds and many disease pathogens.

Tips for Faster, Better Compost

• Keep the pile a manageable size. make it no more than 4 feet across and 3 feet high so you can turn it easily with a pitchfork
• Turn the compost regularly, as often as every few days, with a spading fork or pitchfork. Any turning is helpful, but more is better because oxygen activates compost piles
• Cut up or shred materials. The smaller the materials, the faster they’ll break down.
• Layer nitrogen-rich material (green material) with carbon-rich material (brown materials) if a pile has too much nitrogen, it will get slimy. If it has too much carbon, it will fail to break down quickly.
• Keep it moist. A damp environment speeds up decomposition. During dry spells, soak the compost heap with a hose. However, avoid keeping the compost heap wet all the time, because that also prevents good decomposition. In cool, rainy climates, such as the Pacific Northwest, you may want to cover the ocmpost heap with a tarp or even build a shelter to keep it from being too wet.
• If you have trouble producing enough compost for your garden, consider purchasing it. It’s available in bags, sometimes labeled ‘humus’ adn in bulk for delivery via truck if you need a lot.

Good Materials To Compost
Nitrogen-rich: Alfalfa hay, fruit and vegetable scraps, grass clippings, greenleaves and weeds, manure, seaweed.

Cargon-rich: Dried leaves, shredded newspaper, straw, woody stems and sticks

Other materials: coffee grounds, tea leaves, eggshells, pine needles, wood ashes

DO NOT ADD: black walnut leaves, nuts and branches, Bones, Cat, dog or other pet feces, diseased or invasive plants, meat or meat products, oils fats and greases, seed heads.

We spent the day today started a new vegetable garden in our backyard. I wanted just a small garden in this spot, for starters. I started by following my own advice and graphed the garden out on a piece of paper first. Once I graphed out the size of it – - which turned out to be 12 foot by 15 foot . . I then listed out each of the vegetables that I wanted to plant in this garden.

My list:

1. Tomatoes
2. Cherry Tomatoes
3. Grape Tomatoes
4. Green Beans
5. Peas
6. Onions
7. Carrots
8. Broccoli
9. Cauliflower
10. Cucumbers
11. Lettuce
12. Various Herbs

Once I had that list – I researched each plant to determine the spacing needs for each plant. This way – I knew ahead of time how many plants I could put in a row, and how much space I would need. Some plants are crawlers (cucumbers) – - others are root plants that don’t need a lot of room (carrots, onions) – - others are climbers needing trellises or cages (tomatoes, beans, peas).

Armed with this knowledge – we set about the task of creating the bed, first. We chose a nice location in the yard that was sure to recieve a good 6-8 hours of direct sunlight during the day. We used steaks and string to mark off the exact area we needed and started digging the edge.

Once we had the edges defined, we tilled the ground about 12 inches deep. Turning up all the soild and grass. Luckily, we didn’t find any stones or rocks in the ground at all – - we found real excellent and rich sandy soil that would be perfect for our garden.

Once the area was tilled – - we removed the top 3 inches of soil from the area and replaced it with a compost mixture with rotten manure for a good fertilizer base.

The whole process of edging the area, digging it up, tilling it, removing the top 3 inches and replacing with compost took us approximately 4 hours to complete. We would have kept going, except the skies were warning us to pack it in and head inside. We have quite a doozy of a storm coming our way!

Tomorrow, weather providing – we will finish the bed off by edging it with the brick that we bought from our local garden center:

We decided to put an edge around the garden to keep a good separation of garden and grass – since our grass is very rich, thick and fast growing – we don’t want it growing into the garden!

I’ll post updates on our garden progress as time goes on.

I have heard everything about growing roses – - everything from how very difficult it is, to how very easy it is. In reality – roses need precious little in order to be sucessful. Count on the basics: water, food and the right place to grow its roots. Pretty much like us humans, eh? The sucess of your roses is dependant upon the quality of those three items, really.

Rose growers have their own ’secret recipe’ for growing the perfect rose. Seek them out and start asking questions. If you remember the three basic ingredients (water, food, good soil).. you’ve got a great jump start.

Water: Roses LOVE water! You should provide your roses with the equivalent of one inch of water per week.. that’s the general rule of thumb. This is generally one gallon of water – so if it’s not raining in your area, be sure to give your roses a good, healthy drink of water. Although, the roots will rot if the roses are ’standing’ in water – so make sure the soil surrounding the roses is well-draining soil. Allowing your roses to dry out between watering will stress them out – so make sure to keep them well watered.

Food: Just like us, roses need basic nutrients in order to thrive. These basic nutrients should include: nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium (NPK). These are listed as numbers on fertilizers labels: 5-5-5. NPK are the building blocks of life for plants. Nitrogen promotes new, green growth; phosphorous helps with root growth, photosynthesis and flower production; and potassium helps to strengthen canes, improve vigor and increase winter hardiness. Basic rule of thumb: If possible, apply fertilizers right after it rains to help move it through to soil to the plant roots. (but not before a rain – that will wash the fertilizer away) When in doubt? Give your roses a good, healthy shovel-full of compost or rotten maure (mmmmm!) around the base of each rose every year…preferrably in the beginning of growing season.

Soil: Well draining soil is the best place for your roses to be, along with soil that is rich in nutrients. Adding compost to your soil will help with that. pH is also a factor – - my Dad taught me that if my roses were yellowing, I should check the pH of the soil. A neutral pH makes the nutrients, especially important micronutrients like iron, more readily available to the plants. If the soil is too acid or alkaline, it binds the iron, making it unavailable to the plant. This may cause the chlorosis (yellowing) or other problems. If the pH is acid, add lime; if it is alkaline, add sulphur.

In a future post we’ll talk about pruning and ‘dead heading’ your roses.

What are your secrets?